I've added a few photographs of the shack and some of the kit. I hope you find some of them to be of interest.
Home brew bits n pieces
I successfully built a small, multi band rf amplifier and I've nicknamed it "The Badger".
Its rather "rough and ready" using scrap bits and pieces from a variety of sources but, it works well.
It is designed around two 2SC2099 transistors in push / pull configuration which overall, results in a lower output distortion
levels compared to a single ended transisitor output.
The project was "scratch built" using tried and trusted circuit methodology from the internet. With as little as 200 to 300
milliwatts low level drive input, the output stage is driven very comfortably to 25 watts or thereabouts. Not a very large
output compared to the average 100 watts but, it serves its purpose and has given me the edge in achieving a successful
QSO on occasion.
Standing current is 80ma. Input voltage 12 volts +/- 5% DC.
I am currently using my little Elecraft K1 as an exciter for the amp and is a great combination, based on the
reports I have received from stations I have worked. An easy trip for the K1 throughout.
Finally, I installed a nice seven element Chebyshev Low Pass Filter based on a design by Ed, EI9GQ. This filter uses
silver mica caps which are high voltage rated. The coils were wound using 1mm copper wire.
So, here we go........................
Home brew bits n pieces
I successfully built a small, multi band rf amplifier and I've nicknamed it "The Badger".
Its rather "rough and ready" using scrap bits and pieces from a variety of sources but, it works well.
It is designed around two 2SC2099 transistors in push / pull configuration which overall, results in a lower output distortion
levels compared to a single ended transisitor output.
The project was "scratch built" using tried and trusted circuit methodology from the internet. With as little as 200 to 300
milliwatts low level drive input, the output stage is driven very comfortably to 25 watts or thereabouts. Not a very large
output compared to the average 100 watts but, it serves its purpose and has given me the edge in achieving a successful
QSO on occasion.
Standing current is 80ma. Input voltage 12 volts +/- 5% DC.
I am currently using my little Elecraft K1 as an exciter for the amp and is a great combination, based on the
reports I have received from stations I have worked. An easy trip for the K1 throughout.
Finally, I installed a nice seven element Chebyshev Low Pass Filter based on a design by Ed, EI9GQ. This filter uses
silver mica caps which are high voltage rated. The coils were wound using 1mm copper wire.
So, here we go........................
I decided to encase my Elecraft K1 in its own "enlarged housing" and made the casing the same size as the home made amp.
It has a mahogany front panel and the fascia is finished off with 5mm strips of ply set around the actual facing of the K1.
The "green light" is the "sync/lock" LED fed from the output of the X lock VFO frequency stabiliser board fitted inside the K1.
Green is good; it indicates the "Xlock" has stabilised and is correcting, where appropriate, holding the VFO on the
desired frequency;
All that is left to do is a coat of varnish and panel spraying; to be done at a later date when I've decided on a colour scheme.
It has a mahogany front panel and the fascia is finished off with 5mm strips of ply set around the actual facing of the K1.
The "green light" is the "sync/lock" LED fed from the output of the X lock VFO frequency stabiliser board fitted inside the K1.
Green is good; it indicates the "Xlock" has stabilised and is correcting, where appropriate, holding the VFO on the
desired frequency;
All that is left to do is a coat of varnish and panel spraying; to be done at a later date when I've decided on a colour scheme.
"Kitty" 1672 with the lid off
Twin Paddle Key
I only use CW as an operating mode. It is such an art form and, despite various opinions, there are still a fairly large number
of extremely competent CW operators in the field today. Whilst I still have a manual key to hand, I have gone down the road of
using electronic keyers coupled to single and double paddle keys. They are a joy to use. Over the years I have bought paddles
of various types, but decided that I would like to have a go at making one of my own.
After a considerable period of time trying to evolve a "reasonable" set of twin paddles, I have ended up with a very nice key
which is proving to be a real pleasure to use. The base and supports are made from African Mahogany. Base edges has been
routered to make it somewhat more attractive. The twin levers are very thin high tensile steel blades approximately 4 inches
in length and the result has been a very effective key permitting me to send relatively error free at low and higher speeds.
I have never really tried to transmit at speeds in excess of 25 wpm because of the error factor but with this key, I can
comfortably transmit at a higher wpm with fewer errors. The tension of the levers and the very narrow gap setting is good for
me. The vast majority of time spent working on this twin paddle was trying to achieve a positive tension/resistance setting for
the levers and I have ended up with what is essentially, a very practical key.
It has two means of adjustment. Gap is set by a sliding block on the top of the key and the tension set by adjustable brass
screws with light weight springs inserted. It works incredibly well. I deliberately "buried" all the wiring within the base unit
in order to achieve a cleaner look.
A coating of waterlox tung oil will enhance the mahogany base and hopefully, leave me with a key that will be useful for quite a
few years.
This is my final wooden key. Again, built out of mahogany and
set on a piece of 10mm thick steel plate. Nicely weighted and
works really well.
I use this with the K1 when out and about /p
The action on it is very soft, ie, I barely have to touch the
paddles to get it to key and that is how I like it.
set on a piece of 10mm thick steel plate. Nicely weighted and
works really well.
I use this with the K1 when out and about /p
The action on it is very soft, ie, I barely have to touch the
paddles to get it to key and that is how I like it.
Just click on the images if you want to see it in a larger format
You can see above my beautiful brass twin paddle key made by an extraordinary individual called Jerry Pittenger. He was
licensed as K8RA and lived in Powell, Ohio. Very sadly, Jerry died 2 January 2014; a great loss to us all.
I have had my new key for quite some time now and, to be totally honest, it is absolutely wonderful. This is the P2 model and is
one of five different types available. Jerry very kindly provided me with both magnetic and spring tensioners for the key. I've
never had an opportunity to use magnets before but I have to say, setting the key up has been a breeze. I have replaced the
supplied lever handles (rosewood) with aluminium plectrums. These are extremely thin and are a personal thing which gives
me the right "feel" to the key levers. Albeit, he is no longer with us, I publicly thank Jerry for doing such a wonderful job with
this key and hope to have many years of service from it. His business was taken up by Mike Freeman NT8O, and Fred Freeman,
N8BX following his passing, so the K8RA line of keys is still very much on the go.
A good friend of mine, Tom Hall GM3HBT, kindly gave me a keyer which he built many moons ago. Tom strongly favoured semi
automatic keying and his "bugambic" keyer is an amazing bit of kit. Modestly housed in a little aluminium project box, it has a
variable speed pot and two x two pole switches fitted on the front of it. Power on/off and mode selector. In the downward
position it offers standard iambic keying and in the up position, semi auto but with a difference. The onboard EEPROM is
programmed to add an additional space after a dash character and I am trying to get to grips with this different operating mode.
Its fun !
For those of you who have not heard Tom on air; he decided to hang up his clogs or key. A sad event as I greatly miss chatting
with him on a daily basis.
Thank you Tom for your kindness over the years and may I wish you a long and healthy life.
You can see above my beautiful brass twin paddle key made by an extraordinary individual called Jerry Pittenger. He was
licensed as K8RA and lived in Powell, Ohio. Very sadly, Jerry died 2 January 2014; a great loss to us all.
I have had my new key for quite some time now and, to be totally honest, it is absolutely wonderful. This is the P2 model and is
one of five different types available. Jerry very kindly provided me with both magnetic and spring tensioners for the key. I've
never had an opportunity to use magnets before but I have to say, setting the key up has been a breeze. I have replaced the
supplied lever handles (rosewood) with aluminium plectrums. These are extremely thin and are a personal thing which gives
me the right "feel" to the key levers. Albeit, he is no longer with us, I publicly thank Jerry for doing such a wonderful job with
this key and hope to have many years of service from it. His business was taken up by Mike Freeman NT8O, and Fred Freeman,
N8BX following his passing, so the K8RA line of keys is still very much on the go.
A good friend of mine, Tom Hall GM3HBT, kindly gave me a keyer which he built many moons ago. Tom strongly favoured semi
automatic keying and his "bugambic" keyer is an amazing bit of kit. Modestly housed in a little aluminium project box, it has a
variable speed pot and two x two pole switches fitted on the front of it. Power on/off and mode selector. In the downward
position it offers standard iambic keying and in the up position, semi auto but with a difference. The onboard EEPROM is
programmed to add an additional space after a dash character and I am trying to get to grips with this different operating mode.
Its fun !
For those of you who have not heard Tom on air; he decided to hang up his clogs or key. A sad event as I greatly miss chatting
with him on a daily basis.
Thank you Tom for your kindness over the years and may I wish you a long and healthy life.
The picture to the left is my
shack as it now exists.
Bottom is the finished linear
amp.
Above that is the Elecraft K1.
On top is Dad's Lowe HF225
general coverage receiver.
You can see I also have the
HF225 keypad which makes
frequency entry and band
swopping very easy to achieve.
I am really pleased with how it
has all turned out.
The station works very well
indeed
shack as it now exists.
Bottom is the finished linear
amp.
Above that is the Elecraft K1.
On top is Dad's Lowe HF225
general coverage receiver.
You can see I also have the
HF225 keypad which makes
frequency entry and band
swopping very easy to achieve.
I am really pleased with how it
has all turned out.
The station works very well
indeed
If you want to hear what the "badger" and K1 sound like on air have a listen to this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9weaSoVD7BU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9weaSoVD7BU
The latest addition to the equipment line up. What you see in the middle of the picture above is an "AA0ZZ electronic
keyer" which I purchased very recently. Its a great little keyer with a large number of features you would not expect considering
the great price you can buy it for. The three red buttons are programmable "macros" for whatever you may want to send
without having to use the key and it makes for a really tidy little box beside my K8RA twin paddle and K1 transceiver. Look it up
on the net and you will be amazed at how good a price it is being sold for. It uses a PIC and has some excellent features; speed
control "on the fly", sidetone @ 600hz should you wish to use it, iambic (A & B modes), bug or cootie modes and straight keying
too.
Full details are available at: http://www.4sqrp.com/ek2.php
I wish to comment publicly about the leading authority on this keyer; Craig Johnson AA0ZZ. He is one of the most helpful and
committed individuals I have ever come across. I had a number of questions relating to the design features of the keyer and once
again, in the true spirit of amateur radio, Craig has been more than helpful, providing detailed responses to all that I asked.
I publicly thank you Craig for your courtesy, kindness and consideration.
keyer" which I purchased very recently. Its a great little keyer with a large number of features you would not expect considering
the great price you can buy it for. The three red buttons are programmable "macros" for whatever you may want to send
without having to use the key and it makes for a really tidy little box beside my K8RA twin paddle and K1 transceiver. Look it up
on the net and you will be amazed at how good a price it is being sold for. It uses a PIC and has some excellent features; speed
control "on the fly", sidetone @ 600hz should you wish to use it, iambic (A & B modes), bug or cootie modes and straight keying
too.
Full details are available at: http://www.4sqrp.com/ek2.php
I wish to comment publicly about the leading authority on this keyer; Craig Johnson AA0ZZ. He is one of the most helpful and
committed individuals I have ever come across. I had a number of questions relating to the design features of the keyer and once
again, in the true spirit of amateur radio, Craig has been more than helpful, providing detailed responses to all that I asked.
I publicly thank you Craig for your courtesy, kindness and consideration.
"What's in a piece of paper" ?
A piece of paper that I am extremely proud of.
My RNARS CW proficiency certificate stamped to 30 wpm. This is not a
boast on my part but rather a little bit of sentiment which I place a great
deal of value on, because of who actually signed it.
The certificate was signed by the late Mike Matthews (G3JFF) and I feel
immensley privileged that he witnessed and authorised it. I undertook
the 30 word per minute test under his direction whilst assisting him to run
the RNARS morse reception exercise one Summer evening at GB3RN.
Mike was a very committed and knowledgeable individual who served the
RNARS tirelessly for many years. He always took time out to encourage
those who were interested in this wonderful hobby and was always keen to
get those with even a mild interest, signed up to the RNARS. He was a very
interesting and thoughtful man who could always offer good solutions to
problems as they arose. I valued his companionship greatly.
I have always considered it a cruel injustice that he should have been taken from us shortly after his retirement from extended
service working for the Royal Navy, but in many ways his legacy lives on.
Mike was instrumental in my joining the RNARS in 1989 whilst I was serving at HMS Mercury. We spent many happy
lunchtimes together in the shack and also a beer or two in the Senior Rates Mess on a Friday.
Thank you Mike for all that you did to enhance the good name of the Society and for all your encouragement both with regard to
amateur radio and indeed, life in general.
A piece of paper that I am extremely proud of.
My RNARS CW proficiency certificate stamped to 30 wpm. This is not a
boast on my part but rather a little bit of sentiment which I place a great
deal of value on, because of who actually signed it.
The certificate was signed by the late Mike Matthews (G3JFF) and I feel
immensley privileged that he witnessed and authorised it. I undertook
the 30 word per minute test under his direction whilst assisting him to run
the RNARS morse reception exercise one Summer evening at GB3RN.
Mike was a very committed and knowledgeable individual who served the
RNARS tirelessly for many years. He always took time out to encourage
those who were interested in this wonderful hobby and was always keen to
get those with even a mild interest, signed up to the RNARS. He was a very
interesting and thoughtful man who could always offer good solutions to
problems as they arose. I valued his companionship greatly.
I have always considered it a cruel injustice that he should have been taken from us shortly after his retirement from extended
service working for the Royal Navy, but in many ways his legacy lives on.
Mike was instrumental in my joining the RNARS in 1989 whilst I was serving at HMS Mercury. We spent many happy
lunchtimes together in the shack and also a beer or two in the Senior Rates Mess on a Friday.
Thank you Mike for all that you did to enhance the good name of the Society and for all your encouragement both with regard to
amateur radio and indeed, life in general.
In closing, I would round off by saying that each of us has their own style and their own particular interest within this fabulous
hobby. Whatever "floats your boat" may I take this opportunity to wish you well in your endeavours and I hope that we may
meet on the air some day.
If you take nothing else away with you from this website, remember this:
You should take a moment each day to give thanks that you have been gifted with health, wealth and talents
and that you are privileged to participate in a truly wonderful lifetime hobby.
The wife might not think so, but radio is better than an apple a day. With a modicum of common sense and good planning,
you can keep the "other half" sweet and you can participate in a lifetime hobby full of surprises.
You may contact me @:
wb48(at)blueyonder.co.uk
or
gm0hks(at)yahoo.com